"Cyprus' Micro-Wineries: Reviving the World's Oldest Wine"

In the heart of the Mediterranean, a quiet revolution is brewing. Cyprus, an island nation known for its stunning beaches and rich cultural heritage, is home to the world's oldest named wine, Commandaria. Praised by ancient Greek giants Homer and Euripides for its superb quality nearly 3,000 years ago, Commandaria has a legacy that spans millennia. Yet, despite its rich heritage, this sweet wine has struggled to find its niche in the global market. Now, a number of micro-wineries in Cyprus are reviving traditional wine-making techniques and giving Commandaria a chance at a long-awaited comeback.

The story of Commandaria is one of tradition, resilience, and a deep connection to the land. The wine is made with dark Mavro and white Xynisteri grapes that are indigenous to Cyprus. These grapes are left in the sunshine after harvest for seven to 12 days to bring out the distinctive sweetness. The wine is then matured in reused oak barrels for at least two years, in line with strict production laws to conform with the European Union’s protected designation of origin. This meticulous process results in a wine with notes of honey, raisin, walnut, fig, carob, cinnamon, coffee, and caramel, attributed to the island’s rich volcanic soil.



The unique production process and rich historical background of Commandaria significantly influence its market potential and appeal to modern wine connoisseurs. The wine's complexity, tradition, cultural significance, and exclusivity all contribute to its market potential, making it a wine that stands out in the crowded global wine market. However, the efforts of micro-wineries in Cyprus to revive traditional wine-making techniques and tap into the rich legends around the wine are giving it a chance at a long-awaited comeback.

One of the key strategies employed by these micro-wineries is the revival of traditional wine-making techniques. For instance, wineries like Revecca in the mountain village of Ayios Mamas are focusing on improving quality rather than quantity. This approach has been effective, as Revecca's Commandaria won top prize at the national wine competition in 2024. The winery employs three people and produces 3,000 bottles a year, catering to a steady domestic and foreign following with sales on an upward swing since it opened in 2015. Winery curator Nikolas Christodoulides mentioned, “Our focus is on improving quality rather than being fixated on quantity,” which has worked for one Israeli couple who flies to Cyprus just to replenish their stock.

Another strategy is experimenting with bespoke varieties catering to clients’ tastes. This personalized approach has helped wineries like Revecca to build a loyal customer base. Additionally, the unique and antique history of Commandaria, combined with its extraordinary quality and terrific value for money, is being leveraged to attract wine enthusiasts. Wine expert Demetri Walters, who holds the prestigious title of Master of Wines, noted, “Everyone who tastes it for the first time with me is blown away by the complexity of the wine.” This highlights the potential of Commandaria to gain traction in the global market, especially as sweet wines are slowly regaining popularity.

However, the effectiveness of these strategies has been somewhat limited by external factors such as the exclusion of some 800,000 Commandaria-loving Russian tourists due to sanctions imposed following Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine. Despite this, the upswing in domestic consumption and the gradual increase in foreign interest suggest that these strategies are beginning to bear fruit. For example, the Karseras winery in the village of Doros has seen an upswing in domestic consumption, though it isn’t quite enough to make up for the loss of the Russian market. Manager Philippos Karseras is encouraged by this trend, indicating that small wineries are gradually winning back consumers.

The challenges faced by these micro-wineries in competing with larger, more established wine producers are significant. One of the primary challenges is the lack of marketing and brand recognition. Wine expert Demetri Walters, a Master of Wines, noted that "Commandaria sales haven’t gained much traction abroad primarily because of a lack of marketing." For instance, the island’s main producer KEO has been slow to understand the potential of the wine, particularly their older vintages. Walters emphasized, "A shame, as their Commandaria wines are very good. The unique and antique history, the extraordinary quality across the two styles and the terrific value for money...Everyone who tastes it for the first time with me is blown away by the complexity of the wine."

Another significant challenge is the exclusion of some 800,000 Commandaria-loving Russian tourists as a result of sanctions imposed following Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine. This has led to a significant drop in demand, with annual production of the wine in recent years hovering at around 200,000 bottles. Savvas Constantinou, a beverage inspector with Cyprus’ agriculture and environment ministry, highlighted this issue, stating that "One factor is the exclusion of some 800,000 Commandaria-loving Russian tourists as a result of sanctions imposed following Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine."

Additionally, a bid to expand into the massive Chinese market made headway five years ago but wavered after producers couldn’t meet demand. This indicates that scaling up production to meet global demand is another hurdle for these micro-wineries.

To address these challenges, micro-wineries like Revecca in the mountain village of Ayios Mamas are focusing on improving quality rather than quantity. Winery curator Nikolas Christodoulides said, "Our focus is on improving quality rather than being fixated on quantity." This approach has worked for one Israeli couple who, according to Christodoulides, flies to Cyprus just to replenish their stock. By catering to clients’ tastes and experimenting with bespoke varieties, these wineries are building a loyal following both domestically and internationally.

Moreover, the wineries are leveraging the rich history and unique production techniques of Commandaria to attract wine enthusiasts. The wine’s notes of honey, raisin, walnut, fig, carob, cinnamon, coffee, and caramel are attributed to the island’s rich volcanic soil, as noted by Christakis Nicolaou, community leader of Zoopigi village, home to the Commandaria museum. This emphasis on tradition and quality is helping these micro-wineries carve out a niche in the competitive wine market.

In conclusion, the unique production process and rich historical background of Commandaria make it a highly appealing wine for modern connoisseurs. Its complexity, tradition, cultural significance, and exclusivity all contribute to its market potential, making it a wine that stands out in the crowded global wine market. Despite the challenges faced by micro-wineries in Cyprus, their efforts to revive traditional wine-making techniques and tap into the rich legends around Commandaria are giving this ancient wine a chance at a long-awaited comeback.